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Feature story

by Gordon G. Garrison
The Portuguese, it seems, discovered North America long before Canadians and Americans discovered Portugal. As far back as the late 1700s, that country's fishermen were sailing across the Atlantic to cast their nets into the Grand Banks and harvest cod from what was once considered an inexhaustible supply. They even discovered the caves of Newfoundland, an ideal place for the Iberian country's wonderful wines. For a period of more than 100 years, Newman's used the caves to age its world-famous sherry.

Relatively recently, Canadians started to pay attention to this European destination. Holiday-seekers from the United Kingdom, Scandinavia, Germany and other domains have long looked to the Algarve, Portugal's southernmost province, as a spot in which to enjoy finer weather than their homelands could offer during the winter months. Now with direct flights to Portugal's playground, more and more Canucks are turning to Portugal as a pleasant change from such traditional cold weather retreats as Florida, Texas, Arizona and California.

But a beach is a beach, right? Not necessarily. The Algarve's Atlantic shoreline has wonderful, soft-sand beaches, but they are interspersed with jagged rock outcroppings, making the scene far more pleasant than row upon row of condominiums. There are condos, of course, many of them at rates far lower than one might pay for accommodations in North America. Many are located a block or two from the blue waters of the endless ocean. On your short walk to worship the sun and take a dip, you are likely to pass old world shops and food stalls chock-full of enticing fruits and vegetables. And most certainly fishmongers will be displaying their fresh catch of the day. Tantalizing aromas sensually announce that those wonderful Portuguese breads and rolls are ready for the table.

Your apartment will allow savings, should you wish to do your own cooking. However, one must try the local restaurants. Cafés with sidewalk service are abundant and fine dining is available, should you wish to splurge. At the former, you might find a spot with a view of colourful fishing boats. Your lunch probably arrived in one of them that very morning. One spot at Albufeira will keep passing succulent seafood through a window to your outdoor table until you tell them to stop. You won't go away hungry. For the full dinner treatment, one of the resort hotels will welcome you: appetizer (the squid will be tender); maybe soup (suggest caldo zerde – shredded kale and potato cream); entree (try the typical Bacalhau a Braz – cod with egg, shoe-string potatoes and onions); perhaps a salad (unless you are leery of greens in warm climates); dessert (ask for leite creme or molotov) and a nice wine. Expect to pay up to $100CAD for two, a little more if they provide entertainment.

Just for the experience of it, seek out a spot that offers fado. Fado is as Portuguese as you can get – sad, soulful songs about unrequited love, or perhaps a woeful narrative of a sailor who has not returned from the sea. All this, sung with the accompaniment of a guitar. Perhaps, just perhaps, there may be a joyful tune. In any case, there will be no fear of suffering the depression or exalting in the joy of the lyrics unless you understand the language.

That's another plus for a vacation in this part of the world. Most people you will meet can speak or understand English, and they are most willing to offer help if you need it. And you can always look for an English fish-and-chip shop or a British pub. A number of ex-patriot Brits have established a base in the Algarve to serve their vacationing countrymen. A draft of real ale or a Guinness may be your cup of tea, but be sure to try a Sagres, the Portuguese beer. Portuguese beer-makers have been around since the 1600s, so they know the brewing process as well as they know their wines and their fish.


The Informed Traveller

A 2004 study conducted by Holiday Which? magazine in the UK compared costs among 21 popular European destinations. Prices surveyed included accommodations, car rental and sundries. How well did Portugal fare?
Note: all prices are listed in Canadian dollars - CAD

Hotels: Standard double budget hotel room for one night in high season, including tax.
Most expensive: UK, $242
Least expensive: Turkey, $45
Portugal: $88
Car Rental: Average week's rental of a small car, including insurance, collision damage waiver, unlimited mileage, tax and pre-booked.
Most expensive: Norway, $824
Least expensive: Spain, $264
Portugal: $264
Sundries: Basket of 200 ml Nivea sunscreen, one can of Coca-Cola, one bottle of Evian water, one large tub of Pringles chips, one 24-exposure roll of Kodak film, and 10 postcards and stamps.
Most expensive: Norway, $60
Least expensive: Czech Republic, $26
Portugal: $42

You can usually find helpful cost information on the Internet. For example, here are estimated costs for meals and accommodations found on www.lonelyplanet.com/
destinations/europe/portugal

Meals (in CAD)
Budget: $3 - $9
Mid-range: $9 - $18
High: $18 - $74
Deluxe: $75 +
Lodging (in CAD)
Budget: $15 - $18
Mid-range: $30 - $60
High: $60 - $223
Deluxe: $224 +

Portugal's slow season is between November and March. During this time, accommodations will be considerably cheaper. For example, a studio apartment will cost you $27 CAD for one night. Between June 1st and July 15, this same apartment will cost $107 CAD per night. And between July 16 and August 28, this studio will cost $138 CAD!! If you're looking to travel on the cheap, the slow season is definitely the time to plan a vacation. But take note: many hotels and restaurants close for the slow season.

The Algarve Average Yearly Temperatures
January to March 17 degrees Celsius
April to June 22.4 degrees Celsius
July to September 27 degrees Celsius
October to December 17.7 degrees Celsius

Table of Contents Issue 55
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